the deal
What would you do if you found yourself at night in an unfamiliar place, with no street lamps, no Tokyo Tower to orient you? You have an 18-kg pack on your back, sand seeping into your running shoes and a blistering ache that seizes your entire body after running through endless kilometers of Sahara dunes for 15 hours. Then your flashlight goes out. Welcome to the 14th annual Marathon des Sables!
Year after year, adventurers swarm from nearly 30 countries to run, walk and crawl in the 225 kilometer (140-mile) Marathon des Sables (MDS) in Morocco, which is touted as the toughest foot race in the world.
During the first week in April this year, almost 600 competitors assembled to pit their bodies and determination against potentially violent sandstorms, blistering 46 °C heat, and towering sand dunes, carrying all the food and equipment they needed for the seven days across the unforgiving Sahara Desert in southern Morocco.
Among the insane crusaders this year was Tokyo-based investment banker Robert Stein.
In Tokyo, Stein leads his daily life as the CEO of Deutsche Bank, Japan, yet adventure and physical challenges have always defined his life. Born in northern California, the eldest of three sons, Stein has been a professional tennis player, expert skier, martial artist, and rugby player for Oxford and England Universities.
He has climbed the Eiger in Switzerland and worked at a mobile medical dispensary unit in Burundi, Africa. While living in Hong Kong in 1994, he completed the mountainous 100-km (62-mile) Maclehose, or Trailwalker, race.

Stein’s latest feat, the Marathon Des Sables, breaks into six stages between 9.5 km and 74 km stretches. Temperatures swing radically from 46 °C in the day to 14 °C at night. The terrain alternates from 400-meter skyscraper dunes to moon-like rocky expanses and dried-out lake beds that turn into convection ovens under the burning sun. While organizers provide participants with strictly rationed water, tents that sleep 9 (uncomfortably) on the rocky ground and emergency flares, the participants must supply themselves with everything else including sleeping bags, food, anti-venom pump, compass and signaling mirror. They must carry their gear for the entire 225-km stretch or face penalties or even disqualification.

the groundwork
Such grueling conditions require disciplined preparation. Nine months before leaving for Morocco, whenever Stein wasn’t behind the desk or logging hours on the treadmill with his 18-kg pack, he was either doing pilates (a yoga-like exercise) to prevent injury or testing equipment. To reduce blisters, Stein soaked his feet in alcohol for 10 minutes a night. Besides dehydration, ". . . as long as your feet are OK it should be straight forward" — hypothetically.
Stein’s concern about nutrition led him to experiment with various powdered meals, bright-yellow GU energy gels and Cliff bars while in Tokyo. "There’s nothing worse than coming home from a long day’s work and having freeze-dried food," he laughs. "You eat this stuff and say what am I doing?’’
And, again, why exactly is he doing this?
"If there’s any guilty party it’s Simon Murray." Murray, a 58-year old British investment manager from Hong Kong and a former French Foreign Legionnaire met Stein while working at Deutsche Bank and asked Stein to accompany him on the adventure. Besides camaraderie Stein adds, "Another important reason for doing this is charity, other than our own masochistic intentions, specifically a Hong Kong charity, Hospice Care." Stein hopes to raise 20,000 dollars for the cancer cause.
Aside from fundraising, the months, then, weeks, then days before the race are filled with three to four hour workout routines, e-mails, faxes and calls to review lists and get tips from fellow competitors.

the arrival
Finally, the competitors converge in Morocco. The entire course of the race has been kept secret to ensure no cheating can occur (i.e. hidden stashes of food) and no unexpected spectators can "happen" upon the scene. The day before the race, the crucial "Road Books" which detail each of the six stages of the race are distributed. The first three stages range from 30 km to 37 km per day. The fourth stage is 74 km over two days, followed by a full marathon (42 km) on the 5th day, and the last day is a 9.5 km scamper to the finish.
During the pre-race period, the nervous runners compare their gear and size up the competition. Rumors and speculations run rampant and veterans stir the anxieties by telling first-timers of past horrors. Anything can happen, from the usual bloody feet to cases of near-fatal heat stroke or violent sandstorms which in years past have nearly buried people alive.
Everyone debates the value of gaitors (protective covers that go over the shoes and socks) and whether they will keep the sand out without baking the feet. Other hot topics include what clothes to wear to beat the heat, how to prevent blisters, water bottles vs. water pouches/sacks. The Americans discuss their colorful high-tech gear as the Moroccans scamper past with their tiny hand-sewn backpacks and home-grown dried fruits and nuts.


Stein and Murray find their tent, # 66, and claim their two feet of space in what will be their crowded home for the next week. Though they are not a team, the tent mates were organized out of Hong Kong, becoming familiar with one another during the months of preparation.
First, there are Ping Yin Mak and Kwok Keung Chan, or "Mak & K.K.," two Hong Kong firemen who were on the team that won last year’s Trailwalker (Maclehose) race in Hong Kong. Even though no one can understand their rapid-fire Cantonese, their frenetic energy and sense of teamwork inspire all. Next to them sleeps Vadim Khazatsky, who works at a prominent Wall Street investment bank. His most useful skills prove to be those acquired through a year at nursing school which paved his way from the USSR to America. Then comes Bill Hawthorn, a New York bond broker and a returnee to the MDS, whose colorful clothes and antics entertain in the most despairing of times. Mary Gadams, a corporate strategist and a seven-time MDS junkie, somehow even finds the time to organize the 70 or so Americans who participate in the race. Finally, next to Stein and Murray, there is Mabel Au-Yeung from Hong Kong who gave away all of her gear to the Bedoins last year, swearing that she’d never return.

the method to the madness
As the days progress, each person in the tent falls into their own routine. Fitful sleep, 5:30 am wake-up call. Dreams evaporate into the realization that this is yet another day in the Sahara. Stein opens his eyes and recoils when he finds Murray’s unshaven face just centimeters away. The Hong Kong firemen immediately start jabbering away in Cantonese, picking up their conversation from the night before. Mary groans and snuggles a little deeper into her beloved blue sleeping bag.

Inevitably, each must go for a walk to relieve the system, perhaps getting lucky and finding a small shrub for cover – more often, not. Then, it is time to start boiling water for reconstituting oatmeal or freeze-dried peasant omelets and instant coffee.
By 6:30 am, the tents are taken away, as the whole crew huddles inside their sleeping bags trying to eat or organize their things without letting the sand or the cold wind inside. Foot doctoring begins and new strategies for preventing blisters are tried. Bandaging transforms hunks of raw flesh back into feet again. The contents of the backpack are reassessed and things deemed extraneous are thrown out.
Jackets and nylon pants are peeled off as the sun begins to radiate at 7:30 am. Before the race begins at around 9:00 am, the competitors have to sit and wait and pack and study their Road Books to readjust their game plans for tackling the next stage of the race.

Each day brings a slightly varied sequence of sand, stone and rock. Besides the top competitors who seem to move effortlessly, those who thirst to do this extraordinary event have to alternate between running and walking, crawling and clawing their way.
The pack ranges from the ultra-fit to the disabled — Iron-men, tri-athletes, ultra-marathoners, and military special forces (i.e. SAS, Navy Seals), policemen, a boy in a wheelchair carried by hospital staff and just run-of-the-mill people. The common goal they share is simply making it to the day’s finish line.

As soon as the huge colorful balloons are sighted, signaling the finish line for the day, relief must be transformed to determination to make it through the end-of-the-day routines. After crossing the stage finish, Stein gets in line to collect his ration of water for the night and morning and seeks an empty box to flatten and serve as a bedding pad.

He heads for Tent #66, puts down his backpack and trudges to the medical tent for bandages for his new and old blisters and a bottle of watered-down iodine to wash his feet. After peeling off his socks which stick to the blood and blisters, he pops any new sores and washes off the sand and grit.
Do-it-yourself is better than letting the medics tend to your feet. They simply slice off the wounds, leaving only the most tender skin.

After the feet, it is time to light his tiny Esbit stove and heat ramen noodles and freeze-dried dinner. Each night, Stein and Murray take turns cooking each other an after-dinner powdered cappuccino as the tent mates share laughs and rehash the day’s course and blunders of navigating through the diabolical dunes. During the marathon stage, Stein finally discovers the key to beating the dunes — follow a Moroccan. They always find the most efficient way just by looking at the sand colors.

the media hawks
Besides the race organizers and competitors, the only other people that are allowed to come are press agents due to the harsh conditions of the impressive, yet merciless Sahara. The only other souls that bother to venture out in the insane heat to watch are the Bedouin children and the camels. So, the journalists try to give encouragement as they follow along the course in Land Rovers, bones rattling as they yell out the windows, "Keep it up! Looking good!" They then turn to mutter over their shoulders to those they know, "Not!" Impressions alternate from admiration of the sheer will of the competitors to complete puzzlement at the sheer madness. Some journalists are overheard expressing concern over their stories and that perhaps the course is too easy this year since there are not as many people collapsing or crying uncontrollably as in previous years. Others marvel that no matter who they ask the question, "What do you think about out there?" every participant replies, "Just the next step." With each concentrated step every competitor fights the same fear that escalates with each successful day — the fear of having to drop out of the race.

the dropouts
One South American competitor had to drop out of the race after the first stage due to uncontrollable vomiting from severe dehydration. Although he quit smoking, lost 14 kg, and ran his first marathon in preparation for the MDS, all he feels is the failure and spends the rest of the week torturing himself by thinking about what he could have done better. "I’m coming back next year — definitely," he states after five bottles of IV are pumped into his veins. As if the self-deprecation isn’t enough, Stein explains, "[Dropping out] is horrible. Everyone in the camp knows. You know when you come in each day, who dropped out, how many people dropped out and how it happened. It’s almost like wearing a scarlet letter."


mission accomplished

With the ante sky-high, competitors who manage to claw and hallucinate their way through the marathon stage realize that the final day is only a merciful 9.5 km! The final finish line is in the village of Erfoud, the only real sign of civilization that the participants have seen in a week.
The 28-year-old Moroccan Lahcen Ahansal arrives with a cumulative running time of just over 17 hours, marking his second MDS win. He is followed by two Italians and a Frenchmen whose ages range from 32 to 51. As the groups trudge in, many cross the finish line and burst into tears. An observer notes, "It’s kind of sad. Some people just don’t know what to do," now that their routines aren’t needed and their goal achieved. Hey, there’s always next year!

eastern return
Back in Tokyo, the spring is settling in toward summer. "This is something that takes quite a lot out of your system," Stein reflects. "So I’m pretty relaxed at this stage."
It depends, of course, on what you call relaxed. Since completing the race, he has logged thousands of miles (by air not foot), stopping in Telluride, Colorado and then on to the Philippines and Singapore before returning home. After surviving the race, his promotion to CEO of Deutsche Bank Asia Pacific was announced.
A hectic schedule, however, doesn’t prevent Stein from reflecting on the race and camaraderie. After the event, Stein recalls how he, Murray and friends indulged in a luxurious full-course meal in Marrakech. As the first course arrived, Murray lifted the hood covering his plate only to find a Cliff bar and a packet of GU gel. Feet may fail, but luckily humor does not run on batteries.

Required equipment for
participants
Survival gear


- backpack
- sleeping bag
- torch with spare batteries
- 10 safety pins
- compass
- lighter
- knife
- anti-venom pump
- whistle
- signaling mirror


Survival gear supplied by organization:
- one aluminum survival sheet
- one distress rocket
- salt tablets
- luminous signal stick
Distances
30.0 km
32.5 km
37.0 km
74.0 km
42.0 km
9.5 km
total
225.0 km

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